As first reported again in June, Pieter Mulier of Alaïa selected the town of New York to stage his Spring 2025 assortment for the style home, on the second day of New York Fashion Week. Last evening, the Belgian designer who has been on the helm of Alaïa since 2021, welcomed company inside the enduring Guggenheim Museum – marking the primary vogue present the museum has seen inside its 85-year historical past. Rihanna made a head-turning entrance at Mulier’s anticipated showcase, decked out in a customized Alaïa crystal mesh gown. Perched on the entrance row elsewhere was the likes of Linda Evangelista, Greta Lee and authentic Azzedine Alaïa muse Naomi Campbell. Models quickly make their approach down the spiral runway, donning gravity-defying and architectural silhouettes. Skin-baring seems to be boasting strategic cutouts, with ethereal clothes and separates ran all through Mulier’s seventh assortment as artistic director.

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Read beneath the reactions of theFashionSpot’s discussion board members:

“Baggy denim pants, versions of Charles James’ puffer jacket. Dude, where the f*ck is Alaïa here?” [jeanclaude]

“I really dislike Pieter Mulier’s work. It all feels so strained to illicit emotion and wonder… but there’s no there there. Very hollow and pointless.” [lookatme]

“I’ve been to Guggenheim once and the venue is definitely unforgettable. The clothes, though… Too overthought and over-designed. I usually appreciate his work for Alaïa but this time I’m really missing the master’s easiness and true sensuality. The clothes are wearing the models, not the opposite.” [thiago]

“I have a soft spot for him and I am usually ready to defend him, but this collection is bad. His last 2 shows were amazing so it’s even more disappointing to see something like this. He somehow managed to make things over-oesigned and basic in a very NYFW way. I hate the venue choice. Guggenheim is too big and sterile for a collection that already feels very cold.” [avonlea002]

“It’s a bit early for him to be running out of ideas.” [Thefrenchy]

“This collection should’ve been so much simpler in concept and execution.” [LadyJunon]

“That was terrible. Probably his worst collection and I really can’t deal with him being at Alaïa.” [GivenchyAddict]

See all of the seems to be from the Alaïa Spring 2025 assortment and be a part of the dialog, right here.