And for anybody whose keel may not really feel so even heading into competitors, Griffin recommends leaning into that discomfort like a wave.

“I would say, just be aware of how you’re feeling,” he suggested. “And be willing to recognize what it is might be challenging you, and either write it down or find someone close to you that you can talk to about it. ‘Cause it seems like half the battle is just recognizing those thoughts or feelings.”

Taking a break to have a tendency to 1’s psychological well being can be “a beautiful thing,” Griffin added, pointing to some fellow surfers on the tour who’ve completed so. Because, he defined, “you can’t keep going” in the event you’re not absolutely current on that board.

“You can’t be one foot in, one foot out—it would just tear you apart,” he mentioned. “They’re recognizing that they’re not feeling good and taking a step out is massive. And you see surfers come back from that even stronger.”

—Reporting by Nikaline McCarley

As Griffin prepares to (moist)swimsuit up for the 2024 Olympics, try what all the U.S. athletes will likely be sporting for the opening and shutting ceremonies: