Insights from the Editor-in-Chief on Plus Size Fashion and Sustainability

The Importance of Addressing Sustainability in Plus Size Fashion

Every year during Earth Month, we take a moment to consider the significant impact that fashion has on our planet. However, an essential dialogue often overlooked is the intersection of sustainable fashion and plus size clothing. For many years, those who are plus size have faced a dilemma: they can either opt for fast fashion brands that provide easy access to trendy garments or choose independent designers who focus on ethical production practices, which usually come with a higher price tag.

So, what are the implications of this situation? As the plus size fashion industry continues to expand—projected to reach an astounding $696 billion by 2027 as stated by Allied Market Research—it becomes crucial to ask: Is sustainability a viable option for plus size shoppers? And how can we navigate the delicate balance between affordability and ethical fashion? Let’s explore these topics in more detail.

Understanding the Impact of Fast Fashion on Plus Size Apparel

Fast Fashion: The Primary Choice for Plus Size Consumers

Let’s face the reality: fast fashion has significantly influenced the availability of trendy, affordable clothing for plus size shoppers. In a retail environment where department stores frequently lack sizes above 20, brands like Shein, Fashion Nova Curve, Forever 21 (now defunct), and PrettyLittleThing have emerged to fill the gaps with options extending up to 4X and beyond.

However, this accessibility comes at a considerable cost.

The fast fashion model thrives on mass production, cheap labor, and synthetic materials, all of which contribute to enormous amounts of textile waste and pollution. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, with fast fashion being the leading offender.

Yet, many plus size consumers find themselves in a predicament. With limited sustainable choices, what options do they have for clothing?

The Ultra-Fast Fashion Model of Shein

Shein, with a staggering valuation exceeding $100 billion, has revolutionized the fashion landscape—especially for plus sizes. The company produces over 6,000 new styles daily, offering size inclusivity in ways that many mainstream retailers still fail to achieve, albeit at the expense of ethical labor practices and sustainability commitments.

Reports from Business of Fashion have raised concerns that Shein’s professed “sustainability initiatives” may merely constitute greenwashing.

For a large number of plus size consumers, Shein has established itself as the primary source for stylish, budget-friendly fashion.

However, sustainability is not the only factor at risk—Shein has faced numerous allegations of appropriating designs from independent and small designers, including those focused on plus sizes.

In 2023, several independent creators, including Mariama Diallo (@iamronnie), Bailey Prado, and Flaws of Couture, publicly accused Shein of allegedly infringing on their original designs and mass-producing them without proper credit or legal consequences. These replicas not only mimic the styles but typically undercut the original pricing, making it exceedingly difficult for the original designers to compete.

This approach undermines the value of indie plus size designers, who already function on tight budgets and limited production runs. While independent brands dedicate months to refine a design that caters to plus bodies, Shein can replicate and manufacture the style within days, compromising the artistry, ethical standards, and fit in the process.

Thus, while Shein may provide visibility in sizing, it also negatively impacts the very designers striving to advance plus size fashion.

The Challenges Faced by Indie Plus Size Designers

Despite the overwhelming dominance of fast fashion, indie plus size designers are engaged in the often-unseen labor of creating ethical, well-fitting, thoughtfully designed, and genuinely size-inclusive garments. However, establishing and maintaining a brand in this marketplace is far from simple. In fact, it’s a continuous struggle against systemic obstacles at every turn.

1. Escalating Production Costs for Plus Sizes

One of the most significant challenges that indie designers encounter is the high cost of production, particularly for extended sizing. Factors such as increased fabric requirements, custom grading, specialized fit models, and limited access to inclusive pattern blocks contribute to these costs. Unlike mass-market brands that can produce in large quantities, indie designers typically manufacture in smaller batches (or even on a made-to-order basis), which drastically increases the price per unit.

Many factories charge more for plus size production due to the increased fabric usage and the misconception that it’s more “complex,” even though plus size consumers deserve the same fashion standards as their straight-size counterparts.

2. Limited Access to Sustainable, Size-Inclusive Fabrics

For indie designers aiming to create sustainable fashion, an additional challenge arises: sourcing eco-friendly fabrics that accommodate plus size silhouettes is incredibly tough. Many sustainable fabric manufacturers do not provide four-way stretch, drapey knits, or high-quality linings in larger quantities—or the costs are prohibitively high for smaller brands.

This predicament means that even designers who wish to create sustainable pieces for plus bodies may find themselves excluded from the very fabric market that is intended to promote ethical production.

3. Retail and Distribution Barriers

Even though 67% of American women wear a size 14 or larger, plus size fashion remains significantly underrepresented in conventional retail, making up only 17% of the women’s apparel market. This discrepancy highlights a long-standing reluctance among retail buyers to invest fully in plus size options—especially when these designs are offered by indie brands. For many retailers, expanding sizing is perceived as costly and complicated, leading them to view plus size fashion as a financial risk rather than an opportunity for growth (Medium, Fashion Incubator). This results in fewer wholesale opportunities, limited shelf space, and exclusion from major fashion weeks and industry events.

Without visibility and validation, many indie brands remain “niche” despite having a robust, loyal customer base. It’s a paradox: visibility is essential for scaling, yet scaling is what creates visibility.

4. Underfunded and Frequently Overlooked

While venture capital continues to flow into fashion technology and direct-to-consumer startups, a minuscule amount of that funding reaches plus size fashion brands, and even less is allocated to those founded by Black, brown, queer, or disabled designers. This scarcity of capital makes it nearly impossible to invest in marketing, production, and growth, leaving many talented designers in a constant state of survival.

According to Digitalundivided’s Project Diane, less than 1% of venture funding goes to Black women entrepreneurs, even though Black women are among the largest consumer groups of plus size fashion.

5. Emotional Labor and Community Expectations

Many plus size indie designers find themselves not only running a business but also spearheading a movement. They educate consumers, challenge industry biases, and serve communities that have historically been marginalized. This entails a significant amount of emotional labor, particularly as they navigate consumer demands for affordability within a system that does not support their pricing structures.

Finding balance is an ongoing challenge between staying committed to values and making enough profit to thrive. As Cynthia Vincent, the founder of the sustainable plus size brand BAACAL, eloquently puts it:

“Reaching my ideal customer is one of my biggest hurdles. She is out there and desires great clothing. Once I connect with her, she becomes a loyal supporter excited about the brand. The challenge lies in the expense of reaching new customers in today’s digital environment. Competing in advertising and digital marketing requires not only a considerable budget but also a smart, long-term strategy that can be hard to maintain without a large team. While many promise solutions—from AI tools to agencies—there is no universal fix.
Similarly, expanding product lines is challenging. As a brand dedicated to ethical practices, everything I create is intentionally limited. Even our core pieces are produced in small quantities and restocked based on demand. This approach raises costs since lower production volumes increase per-unit pricing, yet it’s a worthwhile investment. We utilize deadstock and rescued materials, which is more labor-intensive but effective. The product resonates with customers. The key challenge is simply reaching them. Now, I’m considering seeking a strategic financial partner, or perhaps there are investors among my customers!”

Vincent’s narrative reflects a broader reality: Indie plus size designers are innovating from necessity rather than luxury. They are visionaries navigating a precarious landscape, yet they remain committed to advancing the industry through sustainability, quality, and radical inclusivity. To facilitate the evolution of the plus size fashion industry, it’s imperative that we invest in those who are doing the crucial work—and dismantle the structural barriers obstructing their progress.

Leading the Charge: Sustainability in Plus Size Fashion

Currently, only 9% of sustainable fashion brands cater to plus sizes, which poses a significant issue. Sustainable fashion should not be a privilege reserved for straight-sized shoppers. Fortunately, several brands are stepping up to make a difference:

• Baacal by Cynthia Vincent – Utilizes deadstock fabrics (surplus materials from fashion houses) to craft stylish, high-quality pieces in sizes up to 28.
• Loud Bodies – Provides organic, size-inclusive fashion up to 10X, demonstrating that sustainability and extended sizing can harmoniously coexist.
• Altar PDX – Focuses on ethically made, handcrafted plus size items, supporting independent artisans.

Despite these brands and a few other indie plus size designers spearheading positive change, why hasn’t the entire industry caught up?

Exploring the Potential for Fast Fashion and Indie Designers to Collaborate in Plus Size Fashion

This raises an important question: Can fast fashion brands and indie designers collaborate to foster more sustainable plus size fashion?

The answer is nuanced, but there are models that showcase potential for success when executed correctly.

Rebdolls: Embracing a Sustainable and Smart Business Model

A notable example is Rebdolls, an indie brand that matches the agility of fast fashion while avoiding its wasteful practices. Rebdolls prioritizes using deadstock fabric (leftover materials from larger fashion companies) and operates on a “produce-as-needed” model.

While this approach can lead to rapid sell-outs, it also fosters a more thoughtful shopping culture—one that prioritizes resourcefulness over mass consumption. For a brand catering to sizes up to 5X and centering plus size women of color in its marketing and design philosophy, Rebdolls provides a tangible example of how brands can serve the plus size market while honoring sustainability.

Successful Collaborations That Make an Impact

Christian Siriano x Lane Bryant – This high-profile collaboration brought Siriano’s signature red-carpet glamour to Lane Bryant’s devoted plus size clientele. It served as a landmark moment, demonstrating that elevated design and extended sizing can coexist within the retail space.

Eloquii x The Cultivate Awards – Yes, TCF’s own initiative is included here. The Cultivate Awards is a groundbreaking initiative created by The Curvy Fashionista to highlight indie designers of color within the plus size fashion realm. With Eloquii as the presenting sponsor, the Awards go beyond mere visibility: finalists receive funding, mentorship, and design a capsule collection in partnership with Eloquii. This initiative serves as a genuine model for collaboration—uplifting indie talent, delivering elevated design to consumers, and narrowing the accessibility gap.

Harlem’s Fashion Row x Nordstrom – In 2020, Harlem’s Fashion Row, known for championing Black designers, partnered with Nordstrom to showcase inclusive, culturally-rooted fashion through its “Icon Collection.” This collaboration provided Black designers—many of whom offer extended sizing—with the platform, funding, and retail support they frequently lack. The partnership emphasized storytelling, heritage, and community while elevating inclusive fashion to a national audience.

Key Elements of Successful Collaborations

• They value the designer’s insights and expertise, particularly regarding plus size fit and representation.
• They offer resources and infrastructure that indie brands might not otherwise access—such as manufacturing, distribution, and marketing assistance.
• Most importantly, they deliver innovation and inspiration to consumers, rather than treating extended sizing as an afterthought.

These types of collaborations illustrate what can be achieved when the fashion industry goes beyond superficial commitments and engages in meaningful partnerships. The future of plus size fashion depends on more of this kind of intentional collaboration, which empowers indie designers and elevates the industry at large.

Empowering Plus Size Shoppers to Foster Sustainable Fashion

So, what actions can we take?

Support small businesses and indie designers whenever possible. Emerging brands like JIBRI and Baacal depend on direct consumer backing.

Prioritize quality over quantity. Instead of purchasing multiple inexpensive items from Shein, consider saving for a high-quality piece that will last for years rather than months.

Investigate resale and secondhand plus size fashion. Shops such as The Plus Bus, Secondhand Stare, Secondhand Curves, and Proud Mary Fashion are making sustainable shopping more accessible for plus size customers.

Hold brands accountable that exclude plus sizes from their sustainability initiatives. If a “sustainable” brand stops their sizing at L, challenge them to explain why. Brands will not change unless they perceive demand.

Envisioning the Future of Plus Size Fashion and Sustainability

Let’s be clear: fast fashion currently dominates the plus size fashion landscape—not because it is the optimal choice, but because, for many, it is the only option that seems accessible. It provides what plus size shoppers have long been denied: variety, affordability, and visibility. However, this access has come at a substantial cost—both ethically and environmentally.

Conversely, indie designers are the genuine catalysts for change in this sector. They are not just expanding sizing; they are reimagining what plus size fashion can represent when guided by intention, sustainability, and design that truly respects plus bodies. They are innovating fit, establishing ethical production models, and doing so with limited resources and immense creativity.

However, the reality is: they cannot achieve this alone.

The plus size community possesses significant power—real economic power that can influence this industry. By supporting designers focused on ethical practices, by calling out greenwashing and size exclusion, and by demanding better, brands will take notice. Retailers will become aware. Investors will shift their focus.

Let’s challenge ourselves to look beyond fleeting trends and ask more of the industry. Let’s amplify indie plus size designers. Let’s champion sustainable brands that are committed to doing the hard work. This Earth Day, let’s remember that fashion should be for everyone—and so should sustainability. The more we advocate for change, the closer we come to a future where plus size fashion is ethical, inclusive, and accessible for all.