Just before the pandemic struck, the world of plus size fashion seemed to be enjoying a remarkable renaissance. Brands started to recognize the significant purchasing power of the 67% of women who wear larger sizes, leading to extended sizing becoming the fastest-growing segment of the fashion industry. This movement has grown to generate over $22 billion annually in the U.S. Fashion Week runways were vibrant with curvy models, and body-positive influencers occupied the spotlight, championing inclusivity and diverse body types.

However, as we move into 2024, the impact of the post-COVID economy and the resurgence of “get skinny quick” schemes has cast a shadow over the progress we made. Plus size bodies seem to be sidelined once more, which is disheartening for advocates of size inclusivity and consumers alike. The strides towards comfort and acceptance feel alarmingly threatened, as discussions shift back to the limited options available for sizes 18 and above, while the pressure of diet culture looms larger than ever.

Yet, in the face of this concerning backslide, I have discovered a source of inspiration and resilience within the realm of independent plus size designers. We may be a small community, but we are tenacious, determined to navigate the turbulent waters of the fashion world while differentiating ourselves from the clamor of fast fashion giants and mainstream industry favorites.

Reflecting on my earlier days as the U.S. editor of the plus size magazine SLiNK, I recall interviewing major brands that claimed they could not sustain plus sizes due to what they termed “extra fabric costs.” They argued that producing larger sizes necessitated significantly more fabric, rendering the garments prohibitively expensive compared to straight sizes. These claims painted a bleak picture for plus size consumers, suggesting a lack of commitment to inclusivity.

Fast forward to my current experience as a plus size designer with my luxury brand, RCA Public Label, and it has become apparent to me that those assertions were misleading at best. The fabric difference between a size 10 and a size 20 is negligible—less than a yard. Although creating quality clothing does come with its costs, if small, startup brands can successfully manufacture plus sizes, then there is simply no excuse for larger corporations to ignore this responsibility.

Transforming Challenges into Creative Solutions

In March 2020, as the world grappled with the pandemic’s disruptions, I found myself connecting with a community of furloughed fashion freelancers. Together, we united our skills to produce hospital gowns and masks for donation to the overwhelmed healthcare facilities in NYC, showing the power of creativity and community during challenging times.

This collaboration not only reignited my creativity but also prompted me to revisit long-forgotten design concepts, including a dress idea I first envisioned back in 2009. This innovative piece is a wrinkle-resistant, moisture-wicking dress featuring a built-in bra, convertible straps, and an adjustable hemline, embodying both practicality and style.

After overcoming numerous challenges, this concept has materialized into the patented Game Changer Dress by RCA Public Label. The success of this dress has emboldened me to launch a luxury ready-to-wear line and a couture design house dedicated to addressing the persistent fit and style challenges faced by plus size consumers.

The Importance of Representation in Plus Size Fashion

Every design I create, from ample shirt panels that comfortably button over larger busts to miniskirts with additional “booty coverage”—which I affectionately refer to as “the ass allowance”—stems from my lived experience as a plus size individual. These are innovative yet practical solutions that mainstream fashion often neglects, leaving many consumers wanting.

The urgent need for more plus size women to lead fashion brands was a focal point at a recent panel that featured prominent plus size personalities and members of the media. They echoed many issues I have faced: the demand for refined grading, precise fitting, ethical business practices, sustainability, diverse aesthetics, and luxurious options. As a designer and a small business owner who embodies these principles, I felt a strong urge to proclaim, “I’m right here!”

Regrettably, the most prominent media outlets often overlook emerging plus size designers, thereby trapping us in a frustrating cycle of obscurity. I am incredibly thankful for platforms like TCF and the supportive plus size influencers who help amplify my voice and connect me with customers—many of whom are still underserved by mass-produced, low-quality options.

Although my brand, Renee Cafaro Atelier (RCA), embodies these essential values, breaking through the noise has proven to be exceedingly challenging. Established media rarely highlights new designers, perpetuating a frustrating cycle where we struggle to gain the visibility we so desperately need.

During that same panel discussion, experts were asked to identify plus size designers who are “doing it right.” Surprisingly, they struggled to name more than six, all of whom are well-known within the plus size community yet rarely recognized by mainstream fashion media. Where were the mentions of independent talents like Bacaal, René Tyler, Vinnik, or Jibri?

Despite these hurdles, I maintain a sense of hope. Recently, I was invited to share my insights at the London College of Fashion, discussing the critical importance of plus size fashion in the industry and effective design strategies. Additionally, I had the opportunity to attend a Vogue event honoring the incredible career of Naomi Campbell, which served as further inspiration.

While interacting with students at the London College of Fashion, who were creating their first bespoke pieces in a size 22, I witnessed their enthusiasm and passion for crafting avant-garde tailoring that accommodates plus size bodies. Observing these eager students reaffirmed my belief in the next generation of designers and their commitment to inclusivity.

Empowering Plus Size Fashion Through Investment

We must recognize our worth and invest in ourselves, as well as in the independent plus size designers who tirelessly advocate for change in the industry. While fast fashion may appear to offer quick solutions, its ill-fitting and low-quality garments often disintegrate after a few wears. Instead, consider investing in a high-quality piece like our customizable Make it Me Moto from RCA Public Label, designed to last for years and provide style and comfort.

For those in search of something truly unique, my couture Atelier specializes in crafting one-of-a-kind pieces that allow you to express your individuality—because fashion is art, and we all deserve to participate in that artistry.

By continuing to create with passion and purpose, we can ensure that our community will find us. Though the journey may be gradual, I firmly believe that we deserve the same opulence, craftsmanship, and visibility that straight-size fashion often takes for granted. Let’s unite to support the brands that uplift us—together, we can reclaim our rightful place in the fashion landscape.

Meet the Visionary Behind RCA Public Label:

Renee Cafaro, the founder of RCA Public Label, presents a distinctive perspective on plus size luxury fashion as a designer who intimately understands the challenges of dressing fuller figures. She established RCA Public Label to deliver thoughtfully crafted garments that address common fit issues, providing high-quality, sustainable options in sizes often overlooked by mainstream fashion. Moreover, Renee operates Renee Cafaro Atelier, specializing in couture creations that celebrate the elegance of plus size bodies, aiming to elevate standards for inclusivity and artistry in the fashion industry.